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» iRewind Talk » Movies » « 70's Movies » Airborne vs. structural noise

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Author Topic: Airborne vs. structural noise
lossauzasalle
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Lately I’m trying to decode where the noise is actually coming from, not just how loud it is. In our place I get two flavors: the bathroom vent makes neighbor voices super clear (like a tiny speaker), but in the bedroom the dresser and headboard give a little buzz when the upstairs treadmill starts. At my coworking spot, the HVAC kick-on adds a steady hum. Without hiring anyone, how do you tell “airborne through gaps/ducts” from “vibration through the structure” so you don’t chase the wrong fix?
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kimberlyto6
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I wrestled with this in a loft last year. A few no-gear checks helped: tissue-at-the-grille (flutters = airflow path), cardboard-tube “stethoscope” to compare vent vs wall, light test around doors at night, and the fingertip test on trim/railing—if you feel a tingle when the noise happens, that’s structure-borne. Toggle fans/appliances to see if the sound tracks them. For next steps, airborne = seal doors/windows, line the duct or add a backdraft damper; structure = isolation pads, flexible pipe/connectors, decouple where possible. I got a quick plain-English rundown from newyorksoundproofing.com and used their notes to prioritize cheap, reversible fixes first.
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fapeiyeunesou
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Between meetings I’m just jotting a neutral note: keeping a one-week log (time, source you think it is, where it’s loudest) makes patterns obvious and saves money. Panels tame echo inside the room; they don’t stop transfer. Don’t block ventilation while testing—temporary tape only for a few minutes. If you’re renting, gaskets, door sweeps, and window inserts are easy wins; owners can look at decoupled ceilings/walls once flanking paths are mapped. Define success up front (“speech not intelligible in the hall” or “sleep through the night”) so you know when to stop.
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